Chef Merilleau suggests using a red Reuilly, a local wine from Berry, for this dish. If it is unavailable, substitute a Pinot Noir or other good dry red.

1. Sweat the leeks and shallots in 50 g (3 tbsp.) butter. Add the lentils and three times their volume of water. Bring to a boil and simmer over low heat for 25 minutes.
2. Poach the pike-perch in the red wine with the shallots for 5 minutes. Pour the liquid into a saucepan and reduce to three-quarters; whisk the butter into the sauce.
3. Drain the lentils and arrange them in a circle in the center of a plate. Place the pike-perch on top and spoon the sauce all around.
4. Sprinkle with chives and fried leeks and serve immediately.

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A recipe from Jean Merilleau of the Auberge du Moulin de Chameron in Bannegon, France