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Salsify or Vegetable Oyster

Are you familiar with salsify? Low in calories, and with a flavor slightly reminiscent of artichoke, this root vegetable is found on market stalls from October to late January. A little information on its history and use:

As far back as ancient times, the Greeks were eating this vegetable which they knew as "goat's beard," a name that is still used today to refer to wild salsify (along with the picturesque name "jack-go-to-bed-at-noon"!) Olivier de Serres, superintendent of gardens to France's Henri IV, was the first to recommend its cultivation, as early as 1600.

There are two kinds of salsify: "true salsify," with yellow skin, and "black salsify" or "black oyster plant," so called because of its black root (also evidenced by its Latin name, scorza nera). These two plants are often confused. They look similar and are grown and used in the same way. They both have a long fleshy edible root, but the difference is in the color of their skin. It's also worth noting that black salsify is less fibrous and tastier. In fact, yellow-skinned salsify has practically disappeared.

Buying

Choose firm thin roots. Salsify is at its best when young and fresh, and therefore more tender. When overly large, it will be stringy and hollow in the center. Black salsify has less fibrous flesh than the yellow variety. Try to obtain unwashed whole roots. The milky sap that may escape is a sign of freshness. 

Keep in mind when buying salsify that peeling may remove up to 40% of the vegetable's total weight.

Don't be discouraged by the fact that salsify is time-consuming to peel and takes a long time to cook: you can buy frozen salsify. As for the canned variety, its flavor is a lot blander and less interesting.

Storing

Wrap in paper towel and store in the vegetable crisper of your refrigerator.

Like carrots, salsify can be kept for 3-4 weeks in a cool dark spot in the basement in a container full of sand.

It can be frozen after first being blanched.

Preparing

Wear gloves to peel salsify, because it emits a sticky grayish juice that will stain your hands. Immediately immerse it in water so it don't stick together. If it's going to be in water for a while, add some lemon juice or white vinegar. Drain and cut into 5-6 cm (2") lengths before blanching.

Cooking

Prepare a "blanc": dissolve 2 tbsp. flour in a few spoonfuls of cold water, then stir this mixture into 2 liters of boiling salted water. Add the salsify and cook for approximately 45 minutes.

Check for doneness and drain when tender. You can then serve the salsify cold in a mayonnaise or vinaigrette or sauté it in a skillet with a little butter. Add a few toasted almonds for a real treat.

You can also cook it in a covered pan with some pearl onions.

In a pressure cooker: cook for 10-12 minutes. Tip: wash out the pressure cooker quickly to avoid the "dried glue" effect.

A classic: salsify fritters

Spices: nutmeg, saffron

Enjoying

Salsify pairs well with cream sauces or béchamel. With its sweet, refined flavor, it is an excellent partner for white meat, but is also delicious in a degreased meat jus.

For a festive pairing, serve with a few truffle shavings.

Normandy-style (for 750 g / 1 lb. 10 oz. salsify)
Place 750 g (1 lb. 10 oz.) cooked salsify, cut into short lengths, in an ovenproof baking dish. Dice 200 g (7 oz.) ham, sprinkle over the salsify, then drizzle on 4 Tbsp. heavy cream or crème fraîche.
Sprinkle with 70 g (2 1/2 oz.) grated Gruyere and gratiné in the oven before serving very hot.

A new twist on a classic
I suggest replacing "toast soldiers" with salsify sticks to dip into your soft-boiled eggs. Simply cook the salsify in boiling water with a little lemon juice. Season with salt and pepper, then dip each stick into the soft yolk.

Nutritional values per 100 g cooked salsify
  • Energy: 34 kcal
  • Protein: 2.6 g
  • Carbohydrates: 4.9 g
  • Fat: 0.4 g
  • Fiber: 9 g
  • Sodium: 18 mg
  • Potassium: 263 g
  • Vitamin E: 3 mg
  • Vitamin B9: 20 mg

High in fiber, but low in calories, salsify is a "bowel sweeper," but one that sweeps without upset, giving it an excellent reputation since it is easily tolerated by eveyone. In particular, its high potassium and low sodium content give it natural diuretic properties. It's rich in vitamin E, which has antioxidant properties.

Like the artichoke, salsify contains inuline, an ersatz starch that allows it to be eaten by diabetics.

 
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