Truffles

Paradoxically, the more expensive truffles are, the less tasty they are!

In fact, when the season is good, truffles are plentiful on the market. This allows wholesalers to sort them according to quality and so the price stays reasonable.

For lovers of fresh truffles, the season is short: from December to March. However, I prefer to eat them after January 15, which is when they reach full ripeness and when their wonderful flavors are at their peak.

The Burgundy truffle (Tuber incinatum) should not be overlooked, even if it can’t compete with the gustatory power and perfection of its cousin from Périgord. However, avoid cooking the Burgundy truffle, which will kill all of its flavor; used in salads, though, it can be delicious.

Hints and tips

• Brush the truffle if necessary, but don’t wash it.
• Fresh truffles require a minimum of heat to bring out their flavor and aroma.
• However, don’t overheat them for they dry out quickly and their texture loses all its appeal.

In salad with new potatoes
Cut the truffles into thin slices using a mandolin; cut cooked potatoes into rounds approximately 2 mm thick;
season with salt, pepper, aged wine vinegar and peanut oil;
place into a moderate oven for five minutes.

White Alba Truffles