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Espelette Chili

Flavors of Basque Country

Espelette is not only the name of a chili that plays a signature role in Basque cooking, but is also the name of a small village tucked away at the base of a mountain, lined with winding streets decorated with bright red chilies that have been tied by hand, one at a time, onto strings. They are hung as garlands on the eaves of white Basque farm houses so the chilies can get a little sun before being ground into powder. In Espelette on the last weekend of October the chili is king, the star of an annual festival. It's not hard to see that this little vegetable holds a place of honor in Basque cooking!

Cultivated in this part of the Basque country for centuries, chilies were first thought to be part of the pepper family, and were originally used to flavor certain chocolate recipes, since Bayonne was in the 17th century the kingdom's leading chocolate producer.

It was also in the 17th century that a certain Father Larramendy established the relation between Castilian piper mina (black pepper), Spanish "pimenton" and Basque bipergorria (red pepper) which would cause chili powder to be categorized as a spice from then on.

Since the 18th century, ham from the Basque country has been coated with chili powder before being dried.

Cooking

  • chopped, it is used to season piperade
  • it is used as part of the curing process for the famous Bayonne hams
  • in omelets
  • in ratatouille
  • in veal, rabbit or lamb (Axoa) stews
  • with grilled or Spanish-style fish
  • in salads with tomatoes and onions
  • it is also used to spice sausages, pâtés and other charcuterie products
  • puréed or made into a sauce, the chilies can replace hot mustard in some dishes.

Scoville Scale
There are a dozen varieties, including green, young and mild. Heat-wise, Espelette chilies fall between cayenne peppers and sweet peppers and have a relative heat rating of four out of ten on the Scoville scale.

Mild
Medium
Hot
1 = Mild
2 = Warm
4 = Hot
5 = Strong
8 = Torrid
3 = Spicy 6 = Fiercy
7 = Burning
9 = Volcanic
10 = Explosive

 

(Bold = Relative position of the Espelette chili on the Scoville scale)

Variations on a theme
These days many companies sell Espelette chili in various forms, beginning with ground Espelette chili. Made with mild red chili from the Basque country, vegetables and spices, the blend mitigates the heat of the Espelette chili, highlighting instead its flavor and aroma.

as a purée
for an aromatic sauce with a strong flavor

In Basque country, it's common to make mayonnaise, replacing the mustard with chili purée: here it's called "Bayonnaise." Can be used with crème fraîche, fresh white cheese and even yogurt, when deglazing or making hot sauces.

powdered
When ripe, once it has turned red and spicy, it is dried and ground. It is the result of a slow drying of the chilies, followed by a brief stint in the oven to complete their dehydration before the final grinding. It can then be used in place of black pepper to give an invigorating kick to various recipes without altering their flavor. Can be used in place of any chili powder, or even mustard, on grilled meats or in sauces, as well as in pasta, rice or potato dishes, or in eggs, sandwiches or salad dressings.

Garnish the borders of plates with Espelette chili when serving hot or cold meats, fish or roasts.

creamed
for a spicy, flavorful sauce. This method is less hot than a simple purée of Espelette chili. It can be used as a spicy mayonnaise with crudités, fish, hot or cold meat or on toasted bread, or to give flavor and color to pasta.

in brine
whole Espelette chilies and mild Basque peppers are prepared in brine

in vinegar
for young Espelette chilies

If you're in Basque country, make a point of stopping in Espelette because, like the chilies that grow there, the village has a unique flavor. It's also a center for raising Pottocks, sturdy little horses that were once used in English mines.

 
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