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PrintAnchovy - A History
The anchovy plays a central role in the regional cooking of southern France where it is a staple element. Since the Middle Ages, the anchovy has been found on the finest tables of Provence and the Basque country. Fresh, it was a gourmet's delight, while salted it represented an important ingredient in sophisticated recipes. Some fishing ports made it their specialty, and the anchovies of St. Tropez, Fréjus, Collioure, Saint-Jean-de-Luz and Hendaye were particularly renowned until labor costs forced the industry to relocate. In the 17th century, Saint-Jean-de-Luz sent anchovies from the Gulf of Gascony, flavored with olive oil, to Paris, where the best grocers provided them to wealthy clients. Since those days, preparation methods have not changed. As in the past, the anchovies are beheaded and gutted by hand, since no machine exists that can remove the head and viscera at once.
Anchovy - Health File
Because of its origin and preparation method, the anchovy is the perfect organic food. It is rich in calcium, vitamin D - which provides energy - and omega-3 oils which regulate cholesterol.
Culinary File
Salted anchovies
After being gutted and cleaned, the anchovies are placed in clay or glass pots with sea salt for 3 days so that they will exude their liquid. They are then placed into barrels, layers of anchovies alternating with layers of salt, arranged in a wreath pattern, head to tail, belly down. Care is taken to ensure there are no trapped air bubbles. Finally the anchovies are completely covered with salt and brine. They are weighted down and left to mature for several months and the fat that rises to the top is regularly removed. When the master salter judges that the flavor and aroma are at the right point, the anchovies are ready to be eaten. They are packed by hand into glass jars and vacuum-sealed.
Anchovies in oil
After the maturation process described above, the anchovies are desalted in several changes of water of varying temperature. They are then dried, filleted and packed by hand into jars and covered with vegetable oil or organic olive oil depending on the choice offered to the consumer.
Anchovies and their various preparations
Anchovies may also be prepared in vinegar, in hot sauce, rolled with capers or peppers, or placed on skewers with olives.
Marinated anchovies
The fillets are naturally marinated in their oil and flavored for a milder or stronger flavor as desired. They are then preserved in glass jars.
Annie Féolde, Restaurant Enoteca Pinchiorri, ItalyStéphane Raimbault, L'Oasis, France
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