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PrintMaple Syrup - Traditions
Legend says that Nokomis was the first to tap the maple trees to obtain maple syrup. Her grandson Manabush, however, feared that humans, presented with such an easy source of sugar, would become lazy. So he filled the maple trees with water, diluting the sugar. And from that time on, men have had to cut wood, build fires and boil down the maple water in order to obtain their syrup.
Watching a red squirrel quench its thirst with a swig of sap…
One fine spring day, a native Indian watched a little squirrel scamper up a tree trunk. He was intrigued to see it bite into a branch as if to drink, even though a fresh water spring ran nearby. Following the squirrel's example, he broke a branch and lifted it to his lips. What a revelation! Until that moment, his tribe had found sugar only in wild fruits… and yet here was a tree that was weeping sugar!
There are several categories of syrup. It's a mistake to think that "medium" or "dark" syrup is produced simply by boiling the maple water for a longer time. It's the sugar content, measured each morning in the vat, that determines the syrup's classification and its evaporation time (66 Brix or sugar degrees for maple syrup.) Because of nature's whim, maple water has a high saccharose content at the beginning of the season, at which time it will produce the less sweet light or extra-light varieties of syrup. As the season progresses and the weather turns warmer, the concentration of fructose and glucose increases, and the maple water is turned into amber or dark syrup. Thus the composition of the maple water varies over the collection period, which can last from 2 to 6 weeks depending on the temperature and region. Temperature alone is responsible for these changes and nothing can alter this climatic effect. As soon as the trees show signs of budding, the maple water enters another category, unavailable to the general consumer. It is treated and sent directly to companies that produce maple by-products.
Just between us: the light (A) and extra light (AA) classes are good for export. They're admired for their transparency and are well-suited to being displayed in attractive marketable glass bottles of various shapes. But on the gastronomic level, they don't have much flavor. Medium (B) provides a subtle flavor when added to salad dressings or poured over pancakes… but when it comes to cooking, the choice is obvious. You need C (amber) or D (dark) to obtain real depth of flavor.
Since maple syrup is a totally natural product, the flavor and quality vary a great deal from region to region and from year to year like other natural products such as olive oil and wine.
Storing Maple Syrup
If you stock up on maple syrup during the sugaring season, it's best to store it in the freezer, though room temperature is acceptable. Once it's been opened, store it in the refrigerator to slow down the evaporation process, or freeze it for 1 to 3 months if you will be using it only intermittently, since in a humid environment the syrup tends to crystallize.
Maple butter and taffy will keep for about a month; maple sugar, when well wrapped, can be frozen for up to a year. Just grate some from the block as needed.
Cooking with Maple Syrup
To make caramel
Combine 100 g (1/2 cup) sugar with a little water in a small saucepan and boil until a light caramel forms; blend in 200 ml (3/4 cup) maple syrup and 100 ml (6 tbsp.) heavy cream (35%). Pour the warm caramel over apple pie served with old-fashioned vanilla ice cream.
In salad dressing
Combine 1 tbsp. strong mustard, 2 tbsp. maple syrup, 2 tbsp. crème fraîche and 2 tbsp. balsamic vinegar. Mix like a French vinaigrette, gradually whisking in 200 ml (3/4 cup) vegetable oil in a thin stream to create a smooth emulsion. This delicious slightly-sweet dressing goes well with Boston, curly-leaf or head lettuce and is perfect with cold meats such as sliced roast pork or lamb served alongside the salad.
Every Easter Sunday, grandmother Tablier would prepare a special dessert for the parish priest who came to the house for lunch. He was disingenuous about getting himself invited, but the family was fond of him. Shortly before coming to the table, grandmother would reduce maple syrup until it was thick enough to coat the back of a spoon, sometimes testing the consistency by dropping a little into a glass of cold water to see if it formed a soft ball. She cooled the thickened syrup, then gently folded it into 6 beaten egg whites. She cooled the mixture in a crystal bowl and served it with "pastry cookies" - just sweetened pie dough cut out into star or leaf shapes and baked in the oven. And every year the good Father would exclaim, "This is heaven on earth!"
Enjoying Maple Syrup
Maple crème brûlée: beat 4 egg yolks with 75 ml (5 tbsp.) maple syrup in a saucepan; in another saucepan, heat 400 ml (1 1/2 cups) cream to the boiling point; mix the hot cream into the egg mixture; return the saucepan to the heat and cook gently until the mixture thickens, without letting it boil. Pour into a dish, refrigerate, and just before serving, sprinkle with maple sugar and caramelize under the broiler for a few moments.
Pheasant on the menu
Sear pheasant breasts, skin side down, in a little olive oil over high heat, turning when browned; add 60 ml (1/4 cup) maple syrup, turn skin side down again and finish cooking, uncovered, in a 150° C (300° F) oven for 7-10 minutes.
If you prefer duck…
Sauté confit (fat-preserved) duck legs, skin side down, over high heat in 60 ml (1/4 cup) butter and 125 ml (1/2 cup) maple syrup; add 125 ml (1/2 cup) orange juice and finish cooking, uncovered, in a 150° C (300° F) oven for about 10 minutes.
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