Alain Dutournier pairs raw oysters with cooked oysters, which many customers dread, he says. "That's a mistake, since in my opinion a plump cooked oyster takes on additional flavours." Depending on their origin, the variety and how they are raised, oysters offer an immense range of tastes, from total blandness to mouthwatering delight.

"I use the exceptional 'special' oysters from Gillardeau (Marennes Oléron oysters), very plump, with lots of character and a hint of hazelnut taste, which are perfect for all kinds of uses. I have tried to take them to new heights by cooking them with a little white wine and shallot, and a touch of cream to bind them. I make a purée of cooked oyster, onto which I place a raw oyster and some sea water aspic".