All the world's great design houses have been enthusiastic about Shanghai in the last few years: it's China's richest and most international city, the country's economic capital and China's window on the world. The Pourcel brothers needed no other convincing  to open their restaurant in 2004 on a major Shanghai thoroughfare that represents the new China. Colorful luminous touches enhance an otherwise restrained decor. There are some nods to their origins, such as the gallery of portraits of French kings. Their cooking has roots in tradition but reinvents itself harmoniously in such dishes as roast pigeon with curry and cocoa-flavored jus.