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Hostellerie de Plaisance
 
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Hostellerie de Plaisance
Philippe Etchebest
Philippe Etchebest
Grand Chef Relais & Châteaux
Hostellerie de Plaisance - France
To contact the establishment
Place du Clocher
33330 Saint-Emilon (Gironde)
France
Tel: Tél. : + 33 (0)5 57 55 07
Fax: Fax : + 33 (0)5 57 74 41
plaisance@relaischateaux.com
Owner: Chantal et Gérard Perse
Director: Philippe Etchebest
 
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Born in 1966, Philippe Etchebest is a graduate of the hotel school of Talence (Bordeaux), the city where he spent his childhood. His restaurateur parents operated a well-known establishment there called Le Chipiron.

His culinary tour de France included stints at Arrambide in St. Jean Pied de Port, Jean Bardet in Tours, and "Le Gray d’Albion" in Cannes. It was here that he quickly ascended from the post of assistant station chef to second cook when only 23 years old! He then went to Clos Langchamp in Paris and worked for more than 4 years with the man who become his mentor: Jean-Marie Meulien. His ascension was confirmed when in 1992 he became second cook to Dominique Toulousy in Toulouse. With a strong desire to return to the Bordeaux region, he became chef at the Château Grand Barrail in St. Emilion, where he stayed for 5 years.

In 2000, motivated by his defining desire to succeed, he entered the contest for Meilleur Ouvrier de France - "I went there to win, not just  take part." Between the semi-finals and the finals, he underwent a heart operation, which still did not prevent him from winning the final with a menu that he still remembers. And so it was in Strasbourg, in the presence of such great chefs as Bocuse and Robuchon, that he was named along with 17 others "best worker in France," the first from the Gironde since 1924 to make the finals. "I gave it everything I had, did all I could, and I was successful," he says. 

Shortly afterward, recruited by headhunters, he decided to take a post at the Château des Reynats in Dordogne. He would have a year to show what he could do in this somewhat down-at-heel property. Assisted by his wife Dominique, he succeeded in his gamble to overhaul everything, from the decor to the organization to the cooking, and barely a year later he was rewarded with his first Michelin star.

Now that the hard part was done and no challenge remained, Philippe could not resist the call of Chantal Perse. And so, since November 2003 he has overseen the kitchens of the Hostellerie de Plaisance in St. Emilion. At first glance, you are struck by his imposing build (he played rugby for a year in Bègles in the first division, and was Midi-Pyrénées English boxing champion) so his cooking may come as a surprise: it is delicate, precise, carefully presented and sophisticated. Just like his cuisine, Philippe Etchebest is a person of contrasts. 

His rigorous technique is at the service of a rich imagination, with each dish spectacularly conceived, its surprise effects carefully premeditated. The first impression is of each flavor in its place like a balanced palette: acidic, bitter, salty and sweet. The textures are also clearly presented: raw, cooked, hard, soft, solid and liquid. Then, bite by bite, alliances develop, flavors blend and explosions of tastes occur, as in the wonderful squid fricassée with garlic and ginger, which is spooned out of a flavorful broth from which emerge mushrooms and a crispy squid ink tuile...   

The influence of Asia? Yes, but also of the Middle East, Africa, the Mediterranean and Aquitaine. Philippe Etchebest does away with borders. He likes the contrasts that come from combining land and sea. So to begin you might be offered a cube of tomato stuffed with Aquitaine caviar accompanied by a little slice of bread with Jabugo ham and a dollop of sorbet.

Even more striking are slices of black truffle in a salt crust covering Gillardeau oysters on a bed of green apple and ricotta. The truffle's earthy flavor pairs beautifully with the briny tang of the oyster.

Philippe Etchebest has a hands-on involvement with his products and shops every Wednesday at the Libourne market. There he meets the region's best market gardeners and fish sellers, who alone are able to provide him with the best wild strawberries or wild turbot. From March until May, you'll see him choosing morels from one small supplier at the market. "I don't buy them from anyone else."  

Chantal, Gérard Perse and their team have turned this setting, steeped in history (a Unesco World Heritage Site) into an elegant, inviting place to stay. The terrace boasts a wonderful view of the village and the architecture of the two buildings linked by hanging gardens. Savor the creative cuisine conjured up by Philippe Etchebest and discover the grands crus of Saint-Emilion. Unwind in the absolute tranquillity of the Résidence Pavie with 4 suites in the prestigious vineyard.

 
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