The evening reached its emotional climax when homage was paid to Relais Gourmands' two founders, Joseph Olivereau and Pierre Troisgros, who has trained a number of great chefs. In fact, it was one of his former apprentices, Guy Savoy, himself a recipient of three Michelin stars, who expressed the unanimous gratitude of the whole profession.

Speech by Pierre Troisgros

Dear friends,
Let us go back several decades to the days before Relais de Campagne merged with Châteaux Hôtels.

At that time, the young chain suffered from a lack of gastronomic cachet. It was then that President Olivereau had the idea, which he shared with me, of establishing a new division that would bring together fine French restaurants that had been awarded Michelin stars. Naturally La Maison Troisgros was the very picture of a "Relais de Campagne," given its location across from the Roanne train station and, what is more, situated in an industrial city. *

Thus, thirty years ago, this young association called Relais Gourmands came into being. And what could have been more natural than for me to assume the duties of recruitment… and the presidency!

There were three main reasons behind the creation of Relais Gourmands:

• to offer stopping-off points for customers from one relais to another
• to train chefs for these properties
• to increase the chain's prestige through its association with chefs who were already recognized and who were even then receiving a great deal of media attention.

Backed by a highly professional organization, the transition went ahead rapidly, but we had to act gingerly, didn't we Jo, since we were bringing together both "Châtelain" hoteliers and chef-proprietors with assertive personalities.

However, the distinction soon became blurred as the majority of provincial Relais Gourmands chefs also became hotel-keepers, an obvious way of ensuring an evening clientele.

Thus the Relais Gourmands were born. A fifth "C" came to be added to the four existing ones:

• Character
• Courtesy
• Calm
• Charm
• And the fifth "C" for Cuisine

As to the two laurel leaves flanking the pictogram that symbolizes Relais Gourmands, could we not accompany them with some other aromatic plants in order to form a magnificent bouquet garni? But that is a topic for the next general meeting…

Let the party continue!

*Régis Bulot, president of Relais & Châteaux, clearly underlined Relais Gourmands' evolution and the important status that they have acquired in their surroundings. Formerly, if you asked where the Maison Troisgros was, the reply would be: Across from the station. Now, when you ask where the station is, they say: Across from the Maison Troisgros!

Homage to everyone!