The crab trade: a little history
Using crabs in cooking is relatively recent. In the 18th century their meat was used as bait for catching lobsters. Until the 20th century, crabs were not widely sold and were eaten almost solely by fishermen, who simply boiled them.

Did you know that the common crab has an oval body of a reddish-brown color and has two pincers? Watch your fingers! The pincers of adult crabs are capable of crushing a finger very easily. Crabs are migratory and can travel almost 100 km (60 miles) in search of a more favorable climate. They also change shells as they grow. The largest ones can reach a width of 30-40 cm (12 to 16") over 15 years. Crabs are carnivores and feed mostly at night on shrimps, sea grubs, etc.

Buying
In general, Mrs. Crab is heavier than Mr. Crab and has smaller pincers. But the female is also recognizable by its large round tail or brachyura (the male's is triangular). In crabs, the tail is folded under the shell. The crab's weight varies but the largest specimens can reach 5 or 6 kg (11 to 12 lb.)! With crabs weighing about 1 kg, allow one crab for every two people.

Don't give in to the temptation to buy your crab already cooked: whenever possible, purchase live crabs who prove their vivacity by moving their legs and pincers. Check as well to be sure they have all 8 legs and 2 pincers.

Lump crab meat is the solid pieces of white meat extracted from the body of the hard-shell crab. Always sold cooked, it is the most expensive type. But you can use the lump meat from any saltwater crab.

Preparing
A crab will stay alive for several hours out of water. However the animal is delicate and won't survive shocks or direct contact with ice. If it dies, you'll have to cook it right away. If the legs have lost their rigidity or the abdominal membrane is soft and colorless, it's time to throw the crab away! When preparing crab, keep in mind that the usable meat amounts to about half of the crab's total weight.

Cooking
For the crab to retain all its flesh, soak it (alive) in cold tap water for a good quarter hour before dropping it into the court-bouillon (cooking liquid). The court-bouillon can be made with sea water or salted tap water (allow 50 g / 3 tbsp. coarse salt per liter of water) flavored with pepper, carrots, onions, thyme and a little lemon juice or vinegar. Place the crab into the court-bouillon once the water is boiling.

Ideal cooking time
15 to 20 minutes for a 1 kg (2 lb.) crab. Remove from the heat and let the crab cool in the cooking liquid.

Chef's tips
Take a live crab and inject it, through the cavities under the tongue, with brandy such as cognac or calvados. Place it on a baking sheet and put into a very hot oven for 30 minutes. To eat it, simply detach the bottom of the crab from its shell. The inside can be eaten as is. A delight!

Instead of the traditional mayonnaise to accompany a seafood platter containing crab, try a saffron-flavored rouille!

The succulent white meat is highly prized for crab cocktails, pastas, sauces and salads, or can be just as exquisite simply served right out of the shell.

Crab Omelet
Beat the eggs in a bowl; mix in the cooked crab meat; beat the whites from two other eggs to stiff peaks. Fold the beaten egg whites into the omelet and cook in a skillet with a knob of butter, turning half way through so that the omelet is browned on both sides. Serve with a green salad and crusty bread.

Accompanying wines
Be festive and choose a sparkling white but avoid demi-secs. If you wish to be more traditional, opt for a Muscadet or white Bordeaux.