With no rind or bloom, but with a tangy fresh mild flavor, soft cheeses are considered the "childhood of cheese." Runny, creamy or silky, with a moisture content above 60%, they often offer the bright whiteness of fresh milk. Not ripened or fermented, they are made from pasteurized milk or cream.

Buying
They should be soft and moist with a fresh milky scent. They should have a delicate flavor with no bitterness.

Storing
The keeping time of fresh cheeses is relatively short so that the fresh milk taste can come through. Pay attention to the "best before" date on the packaging. If the cheese gives off a somewhat bitter aroma, it's no longer fresh. Store in the refrigerator in its original packaging or in waxed paper.

Serving
Soft cheeses should be served when young for their fresh tangy milky taste to be best appreciated. These cheeses should be served cold - take them out of the refrigerator just before serving.

These creamy cheeses go well with crudités, fruit and flavorful specialty breads such as olive bread, multi-grain, flaxseed or herb breads.

"Cream" type cheeses are a classic accompaniment to smoked salmon and bagels, though for a tasting you could also serve them with a platter of smoked salmon and some dense German or Austrian-style breads.

Accompanying wines
Soft cheeses love sparkling wines, champagne and light dry whites, served cold. Red wines are too heavy.

Cooking
Place baker's cheese or ricotta in a bowl. Blend in some finely chopped herbs (chives, parsley, green onion.) Add a drizzle of olive oil, some wine vinegar, salt and pepper. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and refrigerate until serving time. Serve on baguette slices that have been buttered or oiled and toasted under the broiler, or with cantaloupe slices.

Enjoying

For dessert
Poach some peach halves for 15 minutes over low heat in a lime tea infusion sweetened with honey. Let rest 1 hour. Serve with fresh cheese and toasted pine nuts.

Express
Whip equal quantities of mascarpone and 35% cream. Flavor with tarragon and serve with a rhubarb compote.

Appetizers
Pit some prunes and/or dates; stuff them with fresh cheese flavored with a touch of ginger.

First course
Combine 200 g fresh mascarpone-style cheese with a finely chopped shallot and garlic clove; season with salt and pepper. Take a small ring mold or cookie cutter and fill with a layer of the seasoned cheese; cover with a slice of smoked salmon and refrigerate. Serve alone or with a cucumber salad.

Tartlets
Sauté a chopped onion and some sliced mushrooms in butter; in a bowl, combine 3 eggs and 100 g fresh cheese; season with salt, pepper and a pinch of marjoram. Fill tartlet shells (1 per person) with the mushrooms; pour the egg-cheese mixture over top; bake in a preheated 180° C (350° F) oven for about 15 minutes.